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The resonance of faith - Religious Centres & Pilgrimages
Rajasthan is a devout land where almost every faith has found followers - Hindus, Muslims, Jains and the tribal cults.
The kaleidoscope is truly amazing where the sombre chants and the strict austerities of the Jains is at odds with the Bhil zest for ritual festivities and Rajput exuberance in their faith, or the Muslim custom of mourning and fasting for an entire month, even in the harshest conditions. Every faith was allowed to flourish and gained a firm footing. Many religious shrines were built; most of these were fine examples of Rajasthani art and architecture. Jain temples in Rajasthan are world renowned for their exquisite carvings.
Hindu Pilgrimages
 Pushkar: Considered as one of the holiest Hindu pilgrimage centres, Pushkar is famous for the Pushkar Lake, which is believed to have ‘sin-cleansing’ powers. It is believed that the lake was formed from a lotus that fell off Brahma’s (the creator, in the Hindu Trinity of gods) hands. People bathe in the lake to rid themselves of all sins. The lake is also venue to the famous Pushkar Fair held in the month of Kartik (Nov-Dec) every year. Hundreds of temples line the Pushkar Lake, of which the Brahma Temple is the most popular.
Eklingji Temple, Udaipur: A temple complex 24 km from Udaipur, it is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Bappa Rawal, the founder of the Mewar dynasty is believed to have had a dream in which he was able to solve a problem after he prayed to Shiva. He then resolved to build a temple dedicated to the god.
The complex consists of 108 temples. The temple dedicated to Eklingji is the tallest of them all, its black stone idol a representation of the linga with four faces that have four images in the cardinal directions of Surya, Brahma,Vishnu and Rudra.
The complex also has a life-size image of Bappa Rawal, and its numerous temples have carved images of Ganesh, Ambamata, Kalika, as well as other Shivalingas and brackets with images of celestial nymphs.
Govind Devji Temple, Jaipur: The family temple of the Kachchwahas of Jaipur, it is open to the public. The idols in the temple, brought here from Vrindavan, are believed to have been carved by Vajranath, one of the greatest sculptors of the time and grandson of Krishna. No wonder, the Krishna image has such a bewitching countenance.
The temple was consecrated as part of the City Palace complex by Sawai Jai Singh II. A simple temple, with an open pavilion surrounded by columns, and with a tiered courtyard, obeisance and ritual worship at the temple is deemed high on the scale of merit. Mounted on a silver throne and ornamented with gold jewellery, the idols are particularly venerated during Janamashatmi, the monsoon celebrations coinciding with Krishna’s birthday.
Shrinathji Temple, Nathdwara: A Krishna temple with an image carved from a single block of black marble, Nathdwara has a history that is only a few centuries old. Faced by Aurangzeb’s persecution, Goswami Dev carried this particular idol from Mathura in a chariot, seeking to bring it to Udaipur. However, a wheel of the chariot got stuck in the sand and toil as they would, the people could not pull it out. Seeing it as an act of divine will, it was decided that the image of the lord would be consecrated on the very spot, and so the temple of Shrinathji came to be.
At the temple, glimpses of the idol are permitted for short intervals at fixed times of the day, and it is believed that the faithful see him in different moods associated with his life. The curtain cloths behind the idol have also given rise to one of the better known art forms of Rajasthan, its famous cloth paintings or pichwais.
The ruling house of Udaipur has always come to pray at the temple and as the head of his clan, it is not surprising that the maharana is also popularly known as Shriji among his people.
Nathdwara is 48 km from Udaipur.
Other temples and complexes: There are several temple complexes that are prominent on the pilgrimage network. They are –
- Amber’s Kali Temple: A 16th century temple dedicated to the goddess, it has exquisite silver doors. Also in the Amber fort are a number of other Shiva temples.
- Bijolia and Menal: Located on the Kota-Chittaurgarh highway, these are Shiva temples dating back to the 10th century, and have carved images of Shiva, Parvati and Nandi that are particularly noteworthy for their craftsmanship.
- Galtaji: Rising sharply from a deep gorge are hills where the medieval Hanuman temple, popularly known as Galtaji, has a mass following.
- Kaila Devi: This hilltop temple has a following throughout Rajasthan and is 24 km from Karauli. It becomes a point of pilgrimage in the months of Chaitra (March-April) and Ashadha (September-October).
- Kolayat: An ancient pilgrimage spot associated with the great sage Kapil Muni, it is 50 km from Bikaner and has a number of temples around the ghats of the lake.
- Osian: Off the Jodhpur-Bikaner highway and 65 km from Jodhpur, this was once a major centre of pilgrimage both for Hindus and Jains.
- Ranthambhor’s Ganesh temple: Famous as a tiger reserve, the fort within the sanctuary has a Ganesh temple that has a large following among the people of Rajasthan.
Jain Pilgrimages
The restrained austerity of the Jain way of life has its anti-thesis in the delightful exuberance, even opulence that one sees in their temples.
Dilwara Temple, Mt Abu: For many visitors, this is reason enough to visit Mt Abu. Located within an ancient mango grove, the Dilwara temples are profusely carved and are open between noon and six in the evening. During the morning, the priests perform several ritual ceremonies that are not open for public viewing. The Jains house images of their tirthankaras (those who impart knowledge) within the sanctums, and the two main shrines, those of Adinath and Neminath, are elaborately carved, from doorways and lintels to ceilings, pillars, walls and arches. The sculptor’s art is as much a dedication to the gods as it is a repository of the stone-carver’s skill, enshrined here forever. A separate hall, dedicated to the donors who worked towards the building of these magnificent temples, houses their life-size images including the delicate tracery of their garments captured in exquisite detail on marble.
Parsvanath Temple, Nakoda: Situated in a valley ringed by hills on the Jodhpur-Barmer highway, the temple dedicated to the tirthankara Parsvanath is carved in black stone. Beside it are other Jain temples, including Shantinath with its steep flight of stairs, as well as some ancient Hindu temples.
 Ranakpur: Since the Jains held important positions in Rajput courts, made their money through trading and were influential money-lenders to the royal house, it was hardly surprising that the Ranas, in turn, were patrons of the Jains and their quiet religious ways. In fact, the tract of land on which the Ranakpur temples have been constructed was a gift of the Ranas to the Jains in the 15th century. The Chaumukha is its principal deity in the main temple with its impressive dimensions: 29 halls spread over 40,000 sqft,and consisting of 1,444 pillars, not one of which is alike in it’s carving. Cupolas surround the five spires. Three entrances lead to the temple via double-storied portals and pillared courts. Halls and courtyards radiate around the main shrine. Also in the valley is a polygonal sun temple, and two 14th century Jain temples dedicated to Neminath and Parsvanath.
Shri Mahavirji Temple: Located 90 km from Ranthambhor, it is believed that the spot was converted into a pilgrimage spot following the unearthing of a statue of Mahavira by a cowherd. The temple is a vast complex that has been constructed with white sandstone, and has cupolas of red sandstone. Its chhatris and spires are visible from all around. The walls are painted with religious scenes and facing the temple is a tower where the footsteps of Mahavira have been consecrated.
Rishabdeo Temple, Dhulev: A temple complex that is beautifully carved, 64 km from Udaipur dedicated to Rishabdeo, while images of several other tirthankaras are carved into panels on the walls. Built in the 15th century, the temple has stone elephants at the entrance and images of goddesses flanking the main shrine. Various phases of Rishabdeo’s life are also illustrated through sculptured panels. Offerings of saffron are made to the deity, and a rath yatra every year attracts pilgrims from all over.
Other Jain centres of pilgrimage: Other Jain temples that have a major following are:
- Bhandasha Jain Temple: A 16th century temple dedicated to the 23rd tirthankara Parsvanath, this temple in Bikaner is very popular.
- Jhalraptan: a complex of temples, including many of the Jain faith.
- Lodurva: An important complex of Jain temples near Jaisalmer, they are known for the fine quality of their sandstone carvings.
Islamic Pilgrimages
Though there are mosques in most settlements, a few are important.
Dargah Sharif, Ajmer: A Sufi saint, Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti was a descendent of Prophet Mohammed and was offered this land during the reign of Prithviraj Chauhan. He built himself a formidable following, and not only among Muslims. It is said that when he was 114 years old, the saint locked himself into a room to pray. Six days later, when disciples broke open the door, they found his mortal remains. It is for this reason that the annual urs is celebrated here for a period of six days. At the time of this feast, consecrated food is cooked in huge cauldrons and served by those who serve at the shrine, while standing within it. It is believed that the huge cauldrons were a gift from Emperor Akbar who came to pray at the shrine for heirs and was blessed with sons. Ever since, the Mughals have always come to pray at Ajmer. Qawwalis are sung at the shrine in a mesmeric tempo and people offer chadars at the grave of the venerated saint.
Tarkin ki Dargah, Nagaur: A disciple of Chishti too gained himself a following and his tomb in Nagaur has become associated with miracle cures among people of all faiths.
Folk heroes and family deities
All over Rajasthan, there are several shrines dedicated to family deities who have been venerated to positions of eminence and folk heroes who have been deified.
Among family deities is the shrine of Karni Mata in Deshnoke, 30 km from Bikaner, who, in the 15th century, earned fame for prophesying the foundation of the kingdom of Bikaner, and as a reincarnation of goddess Durga. The temple, with its carved marble façade, has rats and it is believed, that they are the incarnations of the Charans who serve at the temple. Devotees offer them milk and sweets. Karni Mata continues to remain the tutelary deity for the royal family of Bikaner.
Ramdev, born into a Tomar Rajput family at Runicha, near Pokharan, performed miracles, fought with demons, and even earned the respect of maulvis from Mecca. He attained a divine state of meditation (samadhi) at Ramdevra, and has since been seen on horseback by people. Two annual fairs are held here in his memory.
Among the five major folk gods are Pabuji, Gogaji, Mehaji, Harbhuji and Ramdeo Baba, and shrines in their honour are found in almost all villages and towns. These are largely pastoral heroes who fought for the welfare of their village communities, often dying in the process. Together, they are able to protect the faithful against cattle disease, snakebite, poverty and sickness. It is they, and others like them - Rajasthan’s living gods - who make this an enchanted land where the supernatural is natural.
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