Manali to Leh

On the Second Highest Road in the World: Manali to Leh

500 kilometres, two days, a good four-wheel drive – and you are on your way. Open for only three months between July and September before the snows or landslides take over, a journey on the Manali-Leh route is strongly recommended, but not to the faint hearted. The route that has become increasingly popular, takes you through high passes, narrow gorges, deep valleys and undulating plains – as the landscape changes colours from lush green to harsh brown to sombre greys. No sudden acclimatisation trouble when you go this long way and no fear of the flight being turned back where it came from due to bad weather. However, if you do not wish to drive yourself (though this is preferable), take the Himachal Tourism luxury buses, or simply hire a Tata Sumo at Manali with driver to boot.

An early morning start at Manali, you head up towards Vashisht springs and are in time for a delicious aloo parantha breakfast at Marhi. Rohtang Pass (3978m), treacherous as expected, is the next landmark a few kilometres away. The road winds down and goes past Khoksar, Sissu and Gondla. Now we are in the Lahaul and Spiti region. There is a pleasant waterfall at Sissu set amidst spectacular peaks and you may take a break here. If you really want to take it easy, there is a PWD resthouse at Khoksar and you may decide to stop for the night here.

Past Gondla, you reach the T-junction at Tandi, the last fuelling-up station and a few kilometres away lies Keylong, the district headquarters of the last post of Himachal. This is the only town where you can buy provisions and make sure you do that. (You never know when the nature gods descend on you and you are stranded for hours.) The landscape is fascinating – strewn with boulders, rocks, and slippery mountain streams.

According to the time you are making, you can spend the night either at Darcha or Sarchu. The decision would also depend on the state of the road at Baralacha La, the 4883-m high pass between the two points. Both Darcha and Sarchu come abuzz seasonally with tents; there is nothing here but the tents, tent restaurants, police check posts and a star-blazen sky. Darcha is the starting point of a trek to Padum and Hemis. If you are carrying camping gear, it may be a good idea to go 16 km off track to Deepak Tal and pitch up your own tents.

Baralacha La is a crossroads pass linking the upper Chandra and Bhaga valleys with the Lingti valley and the Lingti plains around Sarchu. At Sarchu, the best tented accommodation is offered by the HPTDC camps – prior bookings are a good idea. Food is basic, though you may be able to get a shot of whisky or chaang (Tibetan rice beer).

The road becomes even more interesting after Sarchu – there are 21 hairpin bends over a stretch of 20 km – caution is rather recommended. You drive along the Tsarp river in the Lingti plains, cross over to Ladakh and head towards Lachlung La, the second highest pass on the route at 5060 m. There is a steep descent towards deep gorges at Pang, where tented restaurants have been set up – the stop for a lunch of dal and rice. You climb up again, against a dramatic series of gorges, and drive into a windswept valley. The road smoothens out, is paved and for almost 35 km, you drive through plains before reaching the highest point on the route – Taglang La (5328 m). You may wish to stop here to pay obeisance to the gods at the little shrine or use the ‘highest restrooms in the world’. A word of caution – do not exert yourself, you do not want to fall prey to altitude sickness. You descend down to Rumtse, a small village with a rest house and a few tent hotels. And drive further to Lato with its huge chorten and nothing else, and beyond to Miru, which is also a camping site. The last, or almost the last stop point is Upshi – a small village with a police checkpost, eating stalls, and even a few places to stay in.

Past military sites, you get the first glimpse of the magnificent gompas at Thiksey, Shey and Stok. Human habitation takes over and green fields cover the landscape. You are in Leh now.

Travel Tips

Make sure that your vehicle is sturdy and in good condition – not only is the road unpaved half the way but there are also no service stations on the way. Tandi is the only point where petrol is available.
Sudden changes of weather are not uncommon – causing delays of several hours. Travel well stocked on supplies, rain gear, warm clothes, sleeping bags etc.
The road is usually open between 15 July and 15 September.
Driving time between Manali and Leh is two days, with an overnight stop in tents at Darcha or Sarchu. Food, mattresses and quilts are available at the camps that are put up seasonally.

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