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Lying spread out in the lower Himalayas, where the breeze is mellow and the summers enchanting, is the Kangra valley. People come here from the plains for a whiff of universal spiritualism, for religious pilgrimage, for history, heritage, hippidom and holiday. There is a distinct flavour to Dharamsala, Kangra's most famous town. This is the Dalai Lama's home, seat of the Tibetan government in exile, and religiosity comes in many shapes and forms - from an elaborate library of Tibetan Buddhism to touts promising enlightenment.
KANGRA
There is little to see in this ancient town, from which the valley derives its name. However, historically, it was a place of considerable importance and capital of the region, successively plundered by Mahmud of Ghazni and Tughlak – who were essentially after the wealth in its temples. 18 km almost directly south of Dharamsala, Kangra is located at the confluence of the Bener and Manjhi rivers. The temple of Brajeshwari and the ruined fort of Nagarkot are its main points of interest.
Getting There
The main Pathankot to Mandi road runs through the Kangra Valley and there is a narrow-gauge railway line from Pathankot as far as Jogindarnagar.
What To See
BRAJESHWARI DEVI TEMPLE:
Just outside the town is the temple dedicated to Brajeshwari Devi. Known once for its legendary wealth, this temple was subject to successive depredation by invaders from the North. Destroyed in 1905 by an earthquake, it was rebuilt in 1920.
KANGRA FORT:
The remains of the fort of the rulers of Kangra are located on a strategic height, overlooking the Ban Ganga and Manjhi rivers.
MAHARANA PRATAP SAGAR:
This is a man-made reservoir at an altitude of 450 metres alongside the settlements of Nagrota Surian and Jawali, and many water sports competitions are held here. The charming narrow gauge Kangra railway line that connects Pathankot to Jogindernagar runs through here.
Accommodation
Kangra has several basic places to stay along the road that runs from the bus stand to the main part of the town, and a PWD Rest House.
ADVENTURE IN KANGRA
Trekking
Treks of varying intensities ranging from 6 to 17 days can be organised on the following known routes:
Taragarh-Bir-Jatingri-Taragarh (6 days)
Bir-Billing-Plachak-Thamsar Jot-Base-RajGundha-Billing-Bir (9 days)
Kangra-Kulu (12 days)
Kangra-Manali via Barabanghal (17 days)
Hang gliding
Billing is said to be one of the finest sites for hang gliding in the world. It is the site for the international hang gliding and paragliding competitions held every year organised by Himachal Tourism.
Jungle camp
For the traveller with a budget or a yen for the outdoors, tented accommodation may be found in Taragarh. Swiss tents with attached bathrooms and running water are put up seasonally by the palace hotel. The guests here have the use of all the facilities of the hotel. Open seasonally from 1st October to 30th June.
KANGRA SCHOOL OF PAINTING
With the patronage of the state’s rulers, a unique style of miniature painting developed in the Kangra and Chamba regions, popularly known as the Kangra school of painting.
Having their origins in Pahari folk tradition, these paintings draw inspiration from the cult of Vaishnavism that engaged the Sanskrit and Hindi poets of the time. Based on the poems of Jaidev and others, the paintings portray the doctrine of passionate devotion to Lord Krishna. This art was not confined solely to paper but was also practised on walls in all the erstwhile hill-states that patronised the Pahari artists. The works that survived the Kangra earthquake of 1905 can be seen in Chamba, Arki, Mandi and Kullu, among other towns in Himachal Pradesh. The Bhuri Singh museum in Chamba in particular has a fine collection.
DHARAMSALA
Dharamsala is the district headquarters of Kangra district. The forested hill station lies on the spur of the Dhauladhar range, about 18km north east of Kangra town. Snow-capped mountains enclose it from three sides while the valley stretches out in front. The snow line is easily accessible from here and it is possible to trek to the snows after an early morning's start. Today, it is best known as the seat of Tibet's government-in-exile and the home to His Holiness Dalai Lama. March is a particularly busy month in Dharamsala when the Dalai Lama gives public lectures. For the serious student of Tibetan culture, there's a monastery up at McleodGanj and the school of Tibetan studies with an excellent library.
General Information
Area: 28.81 sq. km
Altitude: Between 1250 metres and 1982 metres.
Temperature (deg C): Summer - Max.33, Min.22; Winter - Max.15, Min. 0.
Clothing: Summer - Light woollens, Winter - Heavy woollens.
Best Season : April to June and September to November.
Languages Spoken: Pahari (the local dialect), Hindi.
Getting There
BY AIR
The nearest airport is at Gaggal, 9 km from Dharamsala and 18 km from McLeodganj. Check for flights with Archana Airways that operates services from Chandigarh and Delhi. Airport/ City transfers by taxi costs Rs. 250 (McLeodganj).
BY RAIL
A narrow gauge line that runs between Pathankot (the nearest broad gauge railhead) and Jogindernagar connects the Kangra valley to the rest of the world on the railway. Kangra Mandir Railway Station is the nearest point for Dharamsala (18 km).
BY ROAD
To reach Dharamsala on the road, you can take the following routes: From Delhi: via Chandigarh, Ropar, Kiratpur, Una, Mubarakpur, Dehragopipur, Ranital, Kangra (600 km). From Pathankot: via Chakki, Nurpur, Shahpur, Chambi on NH 20 (85 km). From Manali: via Mandi, Palampur, Dadh, Chamunda (238 km). From Shimla: via Ghaggas, Hamirpur, Tira Sujanpur, Palampur (235 km).
Direct & regular bus services link Dharamsala with Chandigarh 239 km, Delhi 514 km, Dalhousie 143 km, Hoshiarpur 128 km, Jwalamukhi 55 km, Jammu 197 km, Kangra 18 km, Kullu 214 km, Manali 253 km, Mandi 147 km, Nangal 145 km, Palampur 35 km Chamba 192 km and Shimla 322 km.
Local Transport
Tourist taxis are the major mode for local commutation and are easily available from the taxi-stands or through hotels and travel agents.
Regular bus services of HPRTC and private bus companies also operate between Dharamsala and suburban localities. The buses are usually crowded.
Conducted Tours
HPTDC conducts the following tours from Dharamsala complex:
Shopping
You cannot help but shop in Dharamsala when you sight the colourful wares and objects all over the charming markets. There are Tibetan trinkets, inexpensive warm clothing, incense, prayer bells, rugs and books. A large handicraft shop on Jogibara Road sells thangkas of all sizes, and prayer flags. Nowrojee store by the bus stand, something of an institution, offers sweets stocked in ancient thick glass jars, along with its own bottled pop. The Green Shop, Bhagsu Road, sells recycled painted cards, hand-painted T-shirts, books on environment and filtered boiled water.
Trekking
Between May and October, the Dhauladhar ranges offer an exciting opportunity for trekking. There is a branch of the Mountaineering Institute Manali, Dharamsala.
Routes:
1. Dharamsala-Dharamkot-Triund-Dharamsala - 34 km
2. Dharamsala-Khanyara-Aghanjar-Mahadev-Dharamsala - 16 km
3. Dharamsala-Chamunda-Dadh-Dharamsala - 29 km
4. Dharamsala-Bhagsunath-Dharamsala - 22 km
5. Dharamsala-Kareri Lake-Dharamsala - 35 km
Fishing
The 20-km stretch of the Beas River between Nadaun and the Pong Dam offers excellent opportunities.
Meditation
Besides staying in a monastery, one may take week or month-long meditation course in Tibetan Buddhism, at the Tushita Retreat Centre, north of McLeodganj (Rs. 2500 for 2 weeks). The Vipassana Centre, also in Dharamkot, holds ten day courses for beginners (voluntary donations). Check notice boards in restaurants for dates, and details of yoga courses.
Tourist Information
Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation, Tourist Information Office Kotwali Bazaar, Dharamsala.
BEYOND DHARAMSALA
MCLEODGANJ:
This is really where the Dalai Lama resides. There is a Buddha temple located opposite his abode, the Tibetan Institute of performing Arts (TIPA) is a km away and holds an annual 10-day folk opera commencing on the second Saturday of April. There is also a Tibetan handicraft centre situated at McLeod Ganj and a Sunday market is organised every week. McLeod Ganj is also crowded with restaurants, antique and curio shops and is a tourist’s delight.
BHAGSUNAG FALLS:
An old temple, a fresh water spring and restaurant and of course, the falls, are located at Bhagsunag, 11 km from Lower Dharamsala.
DAL LAKE:
The pretty lake located next to the Tibetan Children's village, 11 km from Lower Dharamsala, is the starting point of many excursions and treks.
DHARAMKOT:
This is a favourite picnic spot with panoramic views of the Kangra valley, Pong Dam lake and Dhauladhar ranges. 11 km from Dharamsala.
TRIUND:
20 km from Dharamsala, Triund (2975 m), is where you go to touch the snows at any time of the year. Literally located at the feet of the perpetually snow-clad Dhauladhar, five km further from here is Ilaqa, the actual snowline. It is a popular picnic and trekking spot. Accommodation is available in the rest house of Forest Department. A ropeway is being installed from Dharamsala to Triund.
WAR MEMORIAL:
Set amidst beautiful surroundings, this memorial has been built near the entry point to Dharamsala to commemorate war heroes.
KUNAL PATHRI:
An easy 3 km walk from Kotwali Bazaar leads up to the rock temple of the local goddess.
JWALAMUKHI TEMPLE:
The famous temple of Jwalamukhi is situated 30 km from Kangra and 56 km from Dharamsala. The temple is one of the most popular Hindu temples in northern India. It does not house any idol, only an eternal flame burns here as a manifestation of the goddess. There is a golden dome, a gift from the Mughal Emperor Akbar. Two important fairs are held here during the Navratras in earlier April and mid October. There are rest houses and HPTDC hotels for those wishing to spend the night or longer.
DEHRA GOPIPUR:
Situated on the bank of the Beas River, Dehra is the base for fishing in the region at Pong Dam, Pattan, Kurn and Nadaun. There are PWD & Forest rest houses. One can also visit the temple of Chintpurni from here.
NURPUR:
66km from Dharamsala, Nurpur is famous for an old fort and a temple of Brij Raj. Nurpur acquired its name in 1672, when Jehangir, the Mughal Emperor named it after his wife Nurjahan. There is a PWD rest house.
MASROOR:
Known for its monolithic rock temples, Masroor is located 15 km south of Kangra. There are 15 richly carved rock-cut temples in the Indo-Aryan style. There is a striking resemblance with similar rock-cut temples found in Ajanta and Ellora in Maharashtra.
Distances From Dharamsala
Chinmaya Tapovan (10 km); Dal Lake (11 km); Dharamkot (11 km); Triund (17 km); Kareri (22 km); Kangra (18 km); Jwalamukhi (56 km); Nadaun (10 km); Chintpurni (80 km); Masroor (40 km); Trilokpur (41 km); Nurpur (66 km); Sujanpur Tira (80 km); Chamunda Devi Temple (15 km); Palampur (35 km); Pong Wild life Sanctuary (Kangra); Bassa Wild Life Sanctuary (Kangra).
PALAMPUR
Palampur (1219 m) is set on the slopes of the Kangra valley, and tea gardens and pine trees abound here. The high ranges of Dhauladhar mountains prop up the skyline, and the snow-covered tops create a fine contrast with the green of the valley. The mild climate and the pine scented air of Palampur are said to have curative properties. A ropeway and an amusement park have been planned by the authorities to promote tourism.
Getting There
AIR: The nearest airport is Gaggal, accessible by road.
RAIL: Palampur is on the narrow gauge railway line that links Pathankot and Jogindernagar. There are several trains daily to Nagrota (Dharamsala) and Jogindernagar.
ROAD: On the road, Palampur has the following distances: Dharamsala 40 km, Kangra 18 km, Kulu-Manali 205 km and Shimla 259 km. A convenient route from Delhi is via Ambala, Ludhiana, Phagwara, Hoshiarpur, Mubarakpur and Kangra.
What To See
NEUGAL KHAD: This is a 300-m wide chasm through which the Neugal stream flows. There is a fine view of the Dhauladhar range from here.
BANDLA: A tea estate spread over four kilometres.
ANDRETTA: Home of artists Sobha Singh, Norah Richards and B.C. Sanyal. There are beautiful paintings in their private houses, and a pottery and crafts centre in the village.
TARAGARH
Taragarh, an idyllic spot, five km northwest of Baijnath, was made famous by the Kashmiri royalty when Maharani Tara Devi acquired the beautiful Al Hilal palace from the Punjab government in 1950 and made it into her summer home. The palace was converted to a hotel in 1971 by her son Dr. Karan Singh, an eminent diplomat and thinker, and thereafter it has been on the tourist map as a prominent icon.
The Setting
Taragarh Palace is situated on a 15-acre forested estate surrounded by tea gardens. Located at a height of 1000 metres, Taragarh Palace is at the foot of the Dhauladhar mountains, and offers a magnificent view of the snow-capped peaks. The hotel’s facilities include 15 rooms, swimming pool, tennis, bridge, badminton, bar, Indian, Continental and Chinese cuisine. There are telephones and TVs in the rooms.
Getting there:
By Air:
Chandigarh and Jammu are the nearest airports with regular flights from Delhi. Thereafter, take a taxi to Taragarh.
By Rail:
Nearest Railway Station: Palampur 11 km. 15 minutes away on the road.
By Road:
Delhi-Taragarh, 530 km. You can drive via Chandigarh-Ropar-Nangal-Una-Kangra-Palampur or via Chandigarh-Kiratpur Saheb-Bilaspur-Mandi-Jogindernagar-Baijnath. Some important distances from Taragarh Palace: Delhi: 530 km, Ludhiana: 286 km, Palampur: 11km, Chandigarh: 286 km, Shimla: 230 km
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