Rajasthan > Features > A lens paradise

Times certainly have changed. In the past the only shooting done was from guns and the gunmen were either warriors or hunters. Today, shooting is more heard of in the context of films and photography. And not without reason: Rajasthan is so picturesque, its people so colourful, that it invites almost everyone to reach for their cameras, emptying spools of film as they record the landscape and the architecture and the people they see around them.

These days, it seems no Bollywood blockbuster is complete without a song-and-dance sequence shot in front of the City Palace in Jaipur, or at Saheliyon ki Bari in Udaipur. Jodhpur’s Umaid Bhawan Palace has appeared in innumerable movies as the location for dramatic sequences that require palaces as location. Nor has the countryside been ignored. There are endless scenes of sand dunes, or drying chillies; while scenes of village wells are commonplace for films with a rural setting.

Hollywood has taken note of Rajasthan too, what with the James Bond thriller Octopussy being shot on location in Udaipur, in and around Lake Pichola and Lake Palace. M.M. Kaye’s classic, The Far Pavilions too was shot entirely in Rajasthan, with Samode Palace as its backdrop. The popular Indian television serial, Tipu Sultan, followed up the interest in Samode Palace, providing fresh impetus to Bollywood’s renewed emphasis on its historic locations. Film star Kate Winslet’s recent film shoot in Pushkar could start off yet another trend in the choice for historic, religious locations.

There are several reasons why shooting in Rajasthan is gaining in popularity for everyone from Australian advertising teams to Indian cinema. For one, permission is easy to come by, since the concerned departments are aware of the requirements of a crew. Also, connections between towns within Rajasthan are fairly easy, both rail and road connections, with an air network and fast corridors to both Bombay (the world’s largest film industry) as well as Delhi (with its own film studios at Noida). Safety, another concern with film crews for their expensive equipment, and for the stars too, is assured in Rajasthan – the hospitality, after all, is as gracious as it is regal. TOP^

Not only do crews like shooting in Rajasthan – there is, after all, so much to see and do outside the scope of their immediate work – but they usually find that the locations too meet their needs for every member of the crew: from luxurious palaces to smaller havelis, and of course, modern hotels, ranging from the five-star to the simple guest house. But more than anything else, it is the incredible possibilities with regards to the scenery the state throws up that make it the ultimate film producer’s delight.

Historic Locations
All the principal kingdoms have locations that can be easily incorporated into a shoot, especially when directors are looking for authentic details. The dry climate of the desert has also been helpful in keeping most historical locations in a remarkable state of preservation.
To begin with, there are the forts, whether in Jaipur, Jodhpur, Kota, Bundi or Bikaner, which are still retained by family-run trusts.

Since these are now mostly open as museums, so blocking of wings for the purpose of shooting does not pose a problem. Among these, those at Jaipur, Jodhpur and Bikaner have sometimes been seen on celluloid, but their full potential has still not been exploited. In any case, these forts are so extensive that several filmmakers can use them without the audience realising that the venue is the same in different films.

Then, there are the palaces for a period, but less historic background, and Rajasthan is full of a very large number of palaces, whether the statelier ones such as Rambagh or Rajmahal in Jaipur or Umaid Bhawan at Jodhpur or Lallgarh at Bikaner, or even their counterparts in Kota or Jaisalmer, with Udaipur being the most fantastic of the lot, and offering a choice of several palaces.

However, filmmakers are sometimes more fascinated by the smaller forts because of the atmosphere, because they are often more rugged and cannot be pinpointed by cine-goers. In Rajasthan, there are such forts and castles every few kilometres and it is impossible not to be tempted to use them as backgrounds. Similarly, there are smaller palaces too, most where the families still reside and they still retain the traditional, period furniture that adds to their charm. Since several of them are now being converted into heritage hotels, booking these for a specified length of time is possible. TOP^

Bollywood Fantasies
Need incredible backgrounds, the more fantastic the better? Take a look around: there is Sisodia Rani ka Bagh and Vidyadharji ka Bagh in Jaipur; Saheliyon ki Bari in Udaipur; the resorts of Balsamand and Sardarsamand in Jodhpur. There are elephants and camels and peacocks. There are streets full of flamboyantly dressed people. And villages where the homes are brightly painted. Anywhere you look in Rajasthan, anywhere you focus through your camera, you get the vivid, imaginative background you were looking for. In a state with too much, it’s the deciding between different locations that is a problem

Arid Landscapes
For those looking for the perfect sands as a background for their scenes (ad makers seem to particularly love them), there is Jaisalmer, with its Sam dunes, but even more interesting are the sand dunes between Bikaner and Nokha, around Deshnoke, where for long stretches, there is no human intrusion to be seen, not even a leaf to disturb the flow of the desert. When looking for scrubland deserts, the Shekhawati landscape is ideal, especially since its small towns that emerge from the horizon are as timeless in their look now as they were centuries ago.

But Rajasthan is not simply great for landscape shots of sand dunes, for there are huge lakes too, thick forests (with teeming wildlife) and the Aravalli and Vindyachal hills. The Bhil villages are also ideal, as are some of the Bishnoi villages, full of colour – and as authentic as one could find. And as for shooting at fairs such as Pushkar, you could never ever get a cinemascope as vibrant as the fair.

Family Dramas and Socials
Not all films or ads require only historic backgrounds or very opulent palaces. When looking for a traditional setting for family dramas, for example, the many havelis are ideal, whether in Shekhawati, or even in Bikaner, since these are built with open courtyards, and are likely to be ready for a shoot without having to make them over. TOP^

Even when a more European ambience is required, such as those of families that tended to be educated according to Western mores, places such as Mount Abu with their period bungalows and furniture more than fit the bill. The hill station is charming too for its lake views, sunset points, walks and trails, and the Jain temples close by. In fact, some of the country’s finest temples where worship is still offered can also be found in Rajasthan, making them ideal for social films. The many festivals that are celebrated can also be included within this ambit.

People’s Choice
Often, cinema needs the background of ordinary people and in Rajasthan you couldn’t ask for more: the people are unspoilt, and as a background, they can bring their brand of vibrancy on the screen without even being aware that they are on camera. If dancers and singers are needed for the background, there are the Kalbeliya snake dancers, the Bikaner fire dancers and Jaisalmer’s Langa and Manganiyar singers who can cast a spell on any audience within moments. No surprises then that whether it is Gulabo who dances to the snake pipes, or Ila Arun in Mumbai who enchants audiences with her distinctive folk rhythm, they can set the screen on fire with their performances.

Aim and Shoot
Still photographers are spoilt for choice. In Rajasthan, you just have to aim and shoot, to capture the incredible beauty of its colourful people and extraordinary landscapes. However, professional photographers tend the following advice:

Best times for photography are between 8 am and 10 am and from 4 pm to 6 pm, when the quality of the light is mellow yet rich.
Carry the films of your choice, since these are not always available in Rajasthan, especially in the smaller towns.
There may be a small fee levied at some historic sites for the use of cameras.
In case of commercial assignments involving models, please take permission in advance.
Please respect people’s sentiments and do not create a stir: this is their heritage, and you are the intruder.
Do not photograph women without their permission.
Some children ask for money when being photographed. There is no harm in giving them a little change (you are likely to make much more from the sale of your pictures), but do not spoil them by over-tipping.
On religious festivals and on family celebrations, the camera and you (even when invited) are not community or family guests – please conduct yourselves discreetly.
Finally, don’t be afraid to over-shoot: as your results will show, even your camera cannot have enough of Rajasthan.

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