After having visited Badrinath most pilgrims go to Kedarnath which, as the crow flies, is only a few miles away. Men and cars are however, bound to roads and one has to drive 224 km and trek a further 19 km to reach Kedarnath from Badrinath. Following the Alaknanda one has to return to Rudraprayag, at the confluence of the Mandakini and Alaknanda rivers. Then, keeping to the Mandakini one reaches Gauri-Kund by evening.

The journey can be exacting and a break in the rest houses and dharamshalas is welcome. From Gaurikund one has to either trek or ride a mule. The climb to Kedarnath is quite steep but there is plenty of company on the way up. ‘Chattis’ (small hutments where one can stay enroute) on the way provide much-needed breaks and one can even spend the night in them. Those who are not acclimatised are advised to stop for the night at Rambada.

Kedarnath is a majestic sight, standing in the middle of a wide plateau surrounded by lofty snow covered peaks. The present temple, built in the 8th century by Adi Shankaracharya, stands adjacent to the site of an earlier temple built by the Pandavas. The inner walls of the assembly hall are decorated with figures of various deities and scenes from mythology. Outside the temple door a large statue of the Nandi Bull stands as guard.

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the exquisitely architectured Kedarnath temple is said to be more than a 1000 years old. Built of extremely large, heavy and evenly cut gray slabs of stones, it evokes wonder as to how these heavy slabs were handled in the earlier days. The temple has a " Garbha Griha" for worship and a Mandap apt for assemblies of pilgrims and visitors. A conical rock formation inside the temple is worshipped as Lord Shiva in his Sadashiva form.

Legend of Shiva and the Pandavas

statue at madhyamaheshwar According to legend, the Pandavas after having won over the Kauravas in the Kurukshetra war, felt guilty for having killed their own brothers and sought the blessings of lord Shiva for redemption. He eluded them repeatedly and while fleeing took refuge at Kedarnath in the form of a bull. On being followed, he dived into the ground, leaving his hump on the surface. The remaining portions of Shiva’s body appeared at four other places and are worshipped as his manifestations.

The arms appeared at Tungnath, the face at Rudranath, the belly at Madmaheshwar and his locks (hair) with head at Kalpeshwar. Kedarnath and the four above mentioned shrines are treated as Panch Kedar.

Classic Journeys India Tip - a word of advice:

To do the Panch Kedar circuit one requires some trekking gear and sound logistic planning. However, the scenic splendour makes the effort worthwhile. From Gaurikund there is also an old yatra route which goes to Gangotri. This is an eight-day trek, which touches the hinterland of Garhwal. Five kilometres from Gaurikund is Trijugi Narayan, where Shiva is believed to have married Parvati. At the temple here, a sacred fire burns continuously and serves as a witness to the divine marriage. A simpler way is to go by road.

Garhwal Himalayas > Pilgrimage > Kedarnath