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The Golden City
Jaisalmer has been dubbed the 'Golden City' because of the honey colour imparted to its stone ramparts by the setting sun. No one who makes the effort to get to this remote sandy outpost leaves disappointed. Centuries ago, Jaisalmer's strategic position on the camel train routes between India and Central Asia brought it great wealth. The merchants and townspeople built magnificent houses and mansions, all exquisitely carved from wood and golden yellow sandstone.
Havelis can be found elsewhere in Rajasthan, but nowhere are they quite as exotic as in Jaisalmer. Even the humblest shops and houses display something of the Rajput love of the decorative arts in its most whimsical form. The rise of shipping trade and the port of Bombay saw the decline of Jaisalmer.
With Independence, partition and the cutting of the trade routes through to Pakistan, seemingly sealed the town's fate; and water shortages could have pronounced the death sentence. However, the 1965 and 1971 Indo-Pakistan wars revealed Jaisalmer's strategic importance and the Rajasthan Canal, to the north, is beginning to restore life to the desert. Today, tourism rivals the military base as the pillar of the city's economy.
The presence of the Border Security Force hardly impinges at all on the life of the old city and only the occasional sound of war planes landing or taking off in the distance disturbs the tranquillity of this desert gem. It has not always been so peaceful of course, since forts have rarely been constructed for aesthetic reasons, and medieval desert chieftains were not known for their tranquil temperaments.
Chivalric rivalry and ferocity between the various Rajput clans were the order of the day, and the Bhatti Rajputs of Jaisalmer were regarded as a formidable force throughout the region. While Jaisalmer largely escaped direct conquest by the Muslim rulers of Delhi, it did experience its share of sieges and sackings with the inevitable jauhar (collective sacrifice) being committed in the face of certain defeat. There is perhaps no Rajasthan city in which you can more easily conjure up the spirit of those times than Jaisalmer. TOP^
There are some fascinating places to see around Jaisalmer. The most interesting means of exploring the desert around Jaisalmer is a camel safari. It is a great way to see the well-populated desert sprinkled with ruins.
In Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer Fort : Built in 1156 AD by Rawal Jaisal, the fort (often called Sonar Kila) crowns the 80m high Trikuta Hill. About a fourth of the old city's population resides within the fort walls. The fort has 99 bastions around its circumference.
Jain Temples: There is a group of five temples within the fort. Built between the 12th and 15th centuries, these temples are an achitectural marvel. Visitors are allowed till 12 noon.
Havelis Of Jaisalmer: The Havelis or mansions built by wealthy merchants and nobles are unmatched for their exquisitely carved sandstone facades. At one time, the city of Jaisalmer lay entirely within the fort, but during the 17th century, havelis were built below the fort.
Some of the better-known havelis are:
Patwon Ki Haveli: The most elaborate and magnificent haveli known for its latticed facade, it was built in 1805 by Guman Chand Patwa, an influential and rich merchant of Jaisalmer. He was known to have three hundred trading centres between Afghanistan and China. The five storeyed complex was built for his five sons. The imposing structure with its elaborate carvings took 50 years to complete. TOP^
Nathmalji Ki Haveli: Elephants carved out of yellow sandstone guard this Haveli built by the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer in 1855. Two brothers, Hathu and Lallu constructed the two sides of the haveli. Though constructed by different persons, the two sides of the haveli give an impression of harmony, inspite of there being slight differences in details.
Gharisar: It had once supplied water to the city; a courtesan has built the temples and archways around it.
Around Jaisalmer
Amar Sagar - 6 km away, has the ruins of a once- beautiful garden on the banks of a lake, which is usually dry in the summer months.
Sam - 45 km away, is known for its sand dunes and is the venue for the Desert Festival.
Desert National Park - 40 km to the southwest of Jaisalmer, it is a protected bio-sphere reserve spread over 3000 sqkm. The awe-inspiring Sam sand dunes are within the park. This is also the bustard breeding location and you may also see the Indian Gazelle, chinkara, eagle and many other birds and animals.
Foreign tourists require permission from the District Magistrate and Desert National Park Office to enter this area. Domestic tourists require permission from the Desert National Park Office. TOP^
Loduva - 15 km away, has the ruins of the earlier capital as also the Jain temples, which are being rebuilt as reminders of its past splendour.
Cultural Calendar
Desert Festival (February)
Shopping
Jaisalmer is specially known for reverse printed fabrics.
Getting There
By Air: The nearest airport to Jaisalmer is Jodhpur.
By Rail: Jaisalmer is on a broad gauge line that connects it to Jodhpur which is an overnight journey.
By Road: Jaisalmer is well connected by road to Jodhpur (258km), Bikaner via Pokhran (330km) and Barmer via Devikot (153 km). Rajasthan Roadways' buses connect Jaisalmer with important towns like Jaipur, Jodhpur, Bikaner and Barmer. TOP^
General Information
- Best Time October - March
- Area 5.1 sq. km.
- Altitude 225 metres
- Climate Summer 41.6 degree C (Max.) 25.0 degree C (Min)
Winter 23.6 degree C (Max.) 7.9 degree C (Min)
- Clothing Summer light tropical
Winter light woollen
- Languages English, Hindi, Rajasthani.
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