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Somehow, when you think Himachal, heritage is not the first thing that comes to your mind. The mountains tower so tall that all other aspects are somewhat dwarfed. But the hills have been witness to many a battle – cause of lofty fortresses and dreamtime ballads. The Mongol plunderers couldn't have enough of its wealth; the Rajputs who migrated here from the plains continued to wield the sword and anointed themselves rulers and chiefs. (They built forts and palaces such as Nagarkot, Jubbal Palace and Naggar Castle.) Down a century or two, Himachal was where the British overlords would hold strategic meetings when the heat in the plains became unbearable - and in the course they created Gothic mansions, elegant churches and many a hotel - little bits of England here and there. (To build the Viceregal Lodge in Shimla, every brick was carried up the plains on mule - Lord Dufferin presided over the elaborate mansion in 1888.)While the redcoats discussed politics, their wives and daughters made the ballrooms simmer in corseted gowns and there were scandals galore.
The maharajas had their own style - they too would retire here in their opulent 'summer palaces'. The Chail Palace was a result of the dalliance of a maharaja whose libido was legendary. The Taragarh Palace was created by a nawab and bought over by a maharani who craved the hills. And of course, there were the writers, artists and madmen who made the hills their home and lent their own special aura. The Cecil in Shimla was a cottage once where Rudyard Kipling lived and the hotel now takes you on a walk called 'Kipling Trail'.
While all along, the hills people continued to celebrate their dances, rites and festivals in traditions that have remained unchanged over the centuries. If you move through Himachal today, you will find that its heritage expresses in many old buildings tucked in wooded nooks, placed by elegant promenades, or set high over the surrounding countryside. Some of these have been converted to hotels, others are owned by private residents, and still others are used for official purposes. They are reminders of the heyday of princely chivalry, laidbackness of countryside mansions, stiff upper lips of Victorian times, easy elegance, exquisite tapestry, legends and scandals. or they are simply hotels that have been host to history's who's who.
SHIMLA
Woodville Palace
Woodville palace has a history dating back to 1866 when Sir William Mansfield, Commander-in-Chief of the imperial army became the first resident of the charming estate. The palace was reconstructed in 1938 by the Rana of Jubbal when hundreds of expert artisans were brought from far and wide to ensure the highest quality of craftsmanship.
Chapslee
With the comfortable elegance of an English country manor, Chapslee was originally built in 1835. In time, Chapslee became the property of Raja Charanjit Singh of Kapurthala, whose descendants now run it as a select hotel. Chapslee strikes one for its trappings of fine luxury and well-maintained artefacts. Ornate brass beds, Belgian chandeliers, drapes from the Doge's palace in Venice, delft-tiled fireplaces and exquisite rugs, all combine to evoke the past.
The Cecil
In the last quarter of the 19th century, at the site of the Cecil – towards the western stretch of Shimla's elegant Mall – stood the small 'Tendril Cottage'. Its most famous occupant for a 'season' in 1885, was Rudyard Kipling. The estate went on to provide the location of the Cecil – which since its creation in 1902 has been a major focus of Shimla's social life. It was here that the well-known hotelier, M.S. Oberoi started his career as a clerk. The hotel has the coveted classification of 'Heritage Grand'.
The Oberoi Clarkes
Towards the eastern end of Shimla's mall, where the row of shops ends, is the Clarkes. It has been a hotel ever since anybody can remember. The neat Tudor-framed structure with window boxes was constructed in the early part of the 20th century as the ‘Carlton’. In the 1920s, the hotel was taken over by Ernest Clarke and named after him. Eventually, it was bought over by M.S. Oberoi.
Hotel Springfield
Towards Shimla's eastern section called 'Chota' (small) Shimla, is this refurbished bungalow. With an excellent view of the peak of 'Choor Chandni' – that poetically translates as 'the mountain of the silver bangle', Springfield was the residence of the former chiefs of Sheikupura.
Madan Kunj
Once called Khud Cottage, this colonial cottage in western Shimla, has a distinct flavour of the past. During World War II, when Burma was under Japanese occupation, this was the summer residence of the Governor of Burma.
DAOJIDHAAR, MASHOBRA
Quite different from the other heritage places, this rural Himachali house has been modified to accommodate a more modern lifestyle. Set in a large estate and surrounded by forests, it has a stunning view of the valleys and mountains.
Solan
Palace Hotel, Chail
The little 'hill station' of Chail came into being when Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala was banished from Shimla, the 'summer capital' of British India, after a dalliance with the Commander-in-Chief's daughter in the late 19th century. The smarting maharaja decided to build his own 'summer capital' and soon, a splendid mansion surrounded by picturesque cottages took shape.
Fort Resort, Nalagarh
 Strategically placed at the foothills of the Himalayas, Nalagarh was the capital of the state of Hindur and gateway to Himachal Pradesh. The fort was built during the reign of Raja Bikram Chand in 1421 and an impressive Diwan-E-Khas (now the Conference /Banquet Hall) was added to it in 1618 by Raja Sansar Chand. It is now operated as a heritage hotel.
Arki Fort, Arki
Once the capital of the princely state of Baghal, Arki has witnessed a good measure of turbulence in this area. Arki became the stronghold of an invading force of Gurkhas during the 'Gurkha Wars' that ended in 1815-16. The highlight of the fort are its muralled interiors, executed in1850 under Raja Kishen Chand.
Kuthar Fort, Kuthar
Within a short driving distance of Arki, and barely an hour away from the Jubbarhatti (Shimla) airport, is the fort of Kuthar. Its oldest sections are 800 years old while the most recent structures are barely eight decades old. Close-by are several scenic attractions like Kunihar, the Gurkha fort of Subathu and the hill station of Kasauli.
MANDI
Rajmahal Palace Hotel
A manor built in the colonial style and still owned by the former ruling house of Mandi, the hotel is a statement in medievalism. Its corridors are lined with arms and portraits, and striking pieces of ornate furniture appear at every turn in the palace.
KULLU
Hotel Castle, Naggar
With hewn stone neatly packed in a horizontal mesh of timber sleepers, this medieval castle was built by Raja Sidh Singh of Kullu around 1460. Perched high on a cliff, it was the stronghold of the rulers of Kullu for over two centuries till they moved down the valley. The hotel overlooks the Kullu valley and apart from the spectacular view and superb locale, it is an authentic example of western Himalayan architecture.
KANGRA
Taragarh Palace Hotel, Taragarh, Palampur
In 1931, the 27-year-old Nawab of Bahawalpur built a large European-style summer residence for himself up in the cool Himalayan jungles of Kangra district. He laid out lush gardens, built a glass pleasure pavilion and a mosque and christened his country palace Al Hilal (The Crescent Moon). Taragarh Palace is a splendid art-deco mansion set amidst a 15-acre forested estate, surrounded by tea gardens. Located at a height of 1000 metres, Taragarh Palace is at the foot of the Dhauladhar mountains offering a magnificent view of the snow-capped peaks.
Cloud’s End Villa, Dharamshala
Placed in the upper reaches of the town – with a spectacular of the hills and the plains, this is an attractive old villa. It is run by the erstwhile ruling house of Kangra.
The Judge’s Court, Pragpur
 The little village of Pragpur in Kangra's sylvan tracts, has an endearing beauty. Narrow cobbled lanes flow past old houses, and flowering bougainvillaea drape over pipul and banyan trees. And to the north, the snow clad Dhauladhar ranges dominate. In this idyllic setting is the Judge's Court, a 300-year-old ancestral home that has been restored using original techniques but with modern plumbing and lighting. The property became famous as 'Judge Sahib Ki Kothi', and hence it came to be known as The Judge's Court. There is a newer part, completed in 1918, indicative of the 'haveli' style of architecture with a largely European floor plan. The place is run as a hotel, while the village itself has been designated a ‘heritage village’.
THE LAMBAGRAON PALACE
With the rise of British power in the area, Lambagraon (Lambagaon) became the 'Jagir' village of the Kangra family. By the waters of the Beas, this has a charming setting and the river stretch offers good fishing.
HAMIRPUR
Sujanpur Fort
Close to the district border of Kangra, is the fort of Sujanpur. Built by Raja Abhaya Chand of Kangra in 1758, in the early nineteenth century, it was the home of the famous Raja Sansar Chand – renowned patron of the Kangra School of miniature paintings.
HERITAGE BEYOND HOTELS
Shimla, the state capital of Himachal Pradesh has some of the world's finest examples of British-colonial architecture. There is the English renaissance-inspired grey-stone former Viceregal Lodge (now the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies), the neo-Gothic structures of the Gaiety Theatre and the former Imperial Civil Secretariat (now the Accountant General's Office), The Tudor-framed 'Barnes Court' (now the Raj Bhavan), the Vidhan Sabha and the Secretariat of the Government of Himachal Pradesh. Colonial buildings can be found elsewhere in the state, especially in the 'hill stations' of Kasauli and Dalhousie.
In addition, there are forts, palaces, temples, monasteries and residences that follow a much older tradition, to be found all over the state. The thousand year old Buddhistmonastery of Tabo in Spiti with its fine wall paintings and stucco statues has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Many of Himachal's forts, palaces and residences are privately owned, and naturally, the discretion of their use rests with their owners. However, they signify the state’s rich heritage. Some remarkable places within or easily accessible from the main holiday stations are: Padam Palace, Rampur, the Palace Sarahan, Jandrighat Dalhousie, the Palace, Jubbal, the Palace, Sunni, the Palace, Nahan.
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