Fairs & Festivals

Somewhere before the winter sets in, all paths in the Kulu valley lead to but one place - the Dhalpur Maidan. The hill devatas come in grand procession to pay their respects to Raghunathji. The Kulu Dussehra is on. The doli (palanquin) of the gods comes alive at the grassy maidan, swinging from side to side; man tries to still it - to no avail. Despair is at a pitch as the angry gods do not relent. The crowd mills around the sacred craft. It parts for an old priest, who makes his way, barely touching the doli, and goes into a trance, muttering some words, possessed by the Gods.

A hush falls over the crowd and all listen to the priest's predictions with bated breath: `Hailstones will wreck the apricot-blossoms. You've not paid homage to your household gods, O fools!' What stuns the first-time visitor is the sheer scale of it all: priests, followers, palanquin bearers, standard-bearers, musicians and just bystanders. Indeed, all roads lead to the maidan. On the first day, the chariot of Lord Raghunath is bedecked with flowers at the old temple of Sultanpur. Some chants from the priest and then the perambulations begin.

First come the priests, followed by the descendants of the Raja of Kulu. As the sun begins its slow descent, it is time for the sacred task of pulling the chariot across the road to the temporary abode of Lord Raghunath. And though the journey is small, a mere stroll really; the sheer grandeur defies the written word. For the next five days, all the rituals of the gods are followed most meticulously at both dawn and dusk. Then on the last day, the rath is taken to a sacred grove on the riverbank where a huge pile of grass and wood awaits the final rites. It is set alight with much merriment just as Lanka was set ablaze in the days of the Ramayana.

After sunset, Lord Raghunath returns to the main temple astride his wooden palanquin. Of course, the festival just cannot begin till the arrival of the omnipotent goddess, Hadimba, the chief deity of Kulu, worshipped most respectably as `grandmother' by the Rajas of Kulu. You will find her ensconced at Ramshilla on reaching Manali. Dusshera in the Kulu valley has little to do with the tradition of the Ramayana, unlike in the plains. In the mountains, under a waxing moon, it celebrates the arrival of the image of Lord Raghunath from far off Ayodhya. Himachal's festivals celebrate life and legends in many forms.

The state's rich tradition, history and natural beauty give the celebrations a special flavour. Over 2000 deities are worshipped and the fairs and festivals mark their special place in the scheme of things. There are numberless temples, innumerable gods, deities and devatas. Of course, the highest in the pantheon is Lord Raghunath, followed closely by the various devatas who are revered after rishis like Vyas, Kapil, Vashisht, Gautam, Dhaumya, Kartikswami, Markandeya, Shandil and Jagdagan.

The gods are as numerous as in ancient Greece: Devi Hadimba of Manali; Devi Phugni of Dughi-Lag and Sarvari Valley; Devi Tripura Sundari of Naggar; Devi Ambika of Nirmand and Shamshar Mahadeva of Ani, all belong to the outer Saraj while those who dwell in. the inner Saraj are Sharinga Rishi of Cheeni, Devi Durga of Goshaini, Pandir of Sainj and Jogni Bajhari of Jalori range. Durbasa Rishi and Narad Muni belong to the Rupi valley. But no aloofness for these gods, they are as human as you would like.

They do not stay away from those who believe in them, but are active participants in the life of the community. And each one has parents, brothers, sisters and relatives scattered all over these very mountains. If they are happy, they eat and drink and are merry, but if neglected, they can frown upon lesser mortals and wreak havoc all around.Whatever happens, no one forgets the devis. Annual jatras are held to appease the Gods.

On a specially appointed day, the rath (chariot) is decorated as befits them - scarves, flowers, ornaments and finally masks are put on for a procession to the fair. With a deep-rooted belief in the power of the gods, oracles are consulted when in doubt. The gods speak through the `gur', and no one dare question this exchange. Sometimes, the devatas visit each other, with an entourage of devotees. The host village throws open its doors to warmly welcome the guests. Tremendous is the influence of the gods in these mountains.

So, the next time you are in Himachal and happen to find a crowd of bedecked residents moving en masse over the hills to another village, you can follow them confidently and be part of the endless merriment.

India Guides